I can't find the key code filed anywhere. How do I get the code from the lock cylinder? (Also: How to open the seat lock without a key)

Again, don't remove the ignition cylinder. It looks easy to do, but it's not, and you won't find the key code there anyways. There are four matched lock cylinders on the GPZ — ignition, fuel filler, seat, and helmet lock (right side). The easiest of these to remove is the seat lock (left side). Removing this cylinder is just the opposite of the ignition cylinder, as it looks hard to do but isn't. All it takes is a cross-tip screwdriver and an appropriately sized hex key.

To remove the seat lock without a key, follow these steps:

1. Use a medium sized cross-tip screwdriver to remove the screw that secures the left side fairing panel. This screw is the big black one located just above the left

2. Gently pull the left side fairing panel out to dislodge the two plastic pins on the back of the panel that hold it against the bike. One of these pins is near the top edge by the fuel tank, and the other is a claw-like piece that attaches to the air cleaner box. Once these pins have pulled free, the fairing panel can be pulled back about 3". Be careful, as you don't want to over-stress the fairing and crack it. This whole procedure can be done without severely stressing any fairing part. If you feel the fairing straining, you're probably doing something wrong.

3. OK, here's the tricky part... facing toward the bike's left side, take one hand and pull the right side fairing panel back about 2-3". Slide your other hand under the fairing panel from bottom to top, fingertips pointing up and palm towards the bike. If you've got big hands, you might seek the help of a diminuitive lovely assistant for this part. Feel around with your fingertips on the lower right back corner of the seat lock cylinder. You're trying to locate the cable that connects the lock cylinder with the seat latch. To help you visualize what you're feeling for, the cable has the exact same "cable and barrel" design that's used on bicycle brakes and shifters, as well as otorcycle throttle cables. There's may be a few wires and other pieces in the area, so try and push through those with your fingertips and feel for the thin, braided steel cable that attaches to the lower right back corner of the seat lock cylinder. Once you locate this cable, hook your fingertips over the cable and pull straight down firmly. You should hear the seat latch pop unlocked. If you've got a tight fitting seat, you may need to push down on the seat about 2/3 of the way back (where the latching pins are located) to help relieve the tension on the latch mechanism. Once the seat is unlatched, remove the seat.

4. Now that the seat is off, remove the screw that secures the top of the left side fairing panel. Pull the top of the fairing out, and remove the two hex bolts that secure the seat lock cylinder. Once the cylinder is off, twist it around to detach the barrel on the end of the cable from the cylinder.

5. Clean off the cylinder with a rag and examine it. You should see the key code clearly stamped (not cast) into the flat side of the cylinder. The code is normally a letter followed by four digits: for example, "Z5160". Take this code to the best locksmith in town. A good, well-equipped locksmith shouldn't have any problems cutting you a new key. It only takes a few minutes, and is relatively inexpensive. For example, I lost my keys in Germany, and sent the key codes half a world away to Bear Creek Lock (http://www.bearcreeklock.com/) in Medford, Oregon. They sent me two new keys that they cut from code, and both keys worked perfectly in all four lock cylinders without any further tinkering. As a precaution, though, you may want to bring your MC registration (or other proof of registration) along with you to the shop, in case they have security concerns with cutting a vehicle key from code.
Check to make sure the key works in all four cylinders. Don't assume that it does, because each cylinder wears differently and may be slightly different, even though they all took the same key previously. You don't want to find out that the key doesn't work in the fuel cap at a gas station hundreds of miles from home.

- Bob Sims