Again, don't remove the ignition cylinder. It looks easy to do, but it's not, and you won't find the key code there anyways. There are four matched lock cylinders on the GPZ — ignition, fuel filler, seat, and helmet lock (right side). The easiest of these to remove is the seat lock (left side). Removing this cylinder is just the opposite of the ignition cylinder, as it looks hard to do but isn't. All it takes is a cross-tip screwdriver and an appropriately sized hex key.

To remove the seat lock without a key, follow these steps:

Don't panic! It's relatively easy to have a key cut from "code" on the GPZ. The code is a alphanumeric series that tells a locksmith how to cut the key. Locksmiths also keep guides that tell them which key blank to use for a given bike model. The code is normally a letter followed by four digits: for example, "Z5160". The trick, however, is finding the code.

Here's a few techniques:

1. Look through the documentation that came with your bike. It's possible that the dealer recorded the key code on their inspection sheet, or some of the other paperwork.

Get some JB Weld in there while you're at it, won't you? NO!

You need a good ball or needle grease. Most kinds of wheel bearing grease work fine since we don't get the heat associated with wheel bearings, but you need to make damned sure the grease gets INTO the bearing assembly, not just lying around on the outside. Put some grease on your thumb and slide the thumb across the bearing edge, forcing the grease into the bearing and out the other side. Repeat until you've gone all the way around. Do not grease from both sides as that will only give you an air bubble in the middle.

Sell the bike and get something with pedals. Right now.

Kawasaki, in its infinite wisdom, decided that to keep the price down, they wouldn't waste any grease on the steering head bearings. They probably got a good deal on a boatload of these top bearings with an extra plastic seal so they figured, what the hell. It's a fairly heavy bike and when you get a drop or two of water in there doing it's funky oxide dance with the balls and races you're in trouble.

Yeah, it is. My personal experience follows: The OEM Bridgestone Battlax BT54s (since replaced with the 020) were probably the best when it comes to mileage, however they had less than perfect grip in the wet and I replaced them with Michelin Macadam 90s. They wore twice as fast and when those were approaching baldness I got a pair of Continental Contiforce tires which wore half again before showing their innards. I have also used a pair of Metzeler MEZ4 which, despite their race-inspired ads and pattern, are holding up fine.